The Siberian Husky

Beauty and brains! This breed is known for their wolf like appearance AND attitude. They come in a variety of colors and shapes. Some have short coats, some are thick, plush, or woolly. They have as many eye color combinations as their coat colors and their personalities are like something out of this world. Their ears are always erect and their eyes are more almond shaped. They are very fun dogs to own but can be a real test to the inexperienced dog owner. Please do your research on the breed before deciding to add a Siberian to your family. This page you will learn the Siberian Husky like you've never known before.

The official AKC Siberian Husky Breed Standard


General Appearance: The Siberian Husky is a medium-sized working dog, quick and light on

his feet and free and graceful in action. His moderately compact and well furred body, erect ears

and brush tail suggest his Northern heritage. His characteristic gait is smooth and seemingly

effortless. He performs his original function in harness most capably, carrying a light load at a

moderate speed over great distances. His body proportions and form reflect this basic balance of

power, speed and endurance. The males of the Siberian Husky breed are masculine but never

coarse; the bitches are feminine but without weakness of structure. In proper condition, with

muscle firm and well developed, the Siberian Husky does not carry excess weight.

Size, Proportion, Substance: Height - Dogs, 21 to 23½ inches at the withers. Bitches, 20 to 22

inches at the withers. Weight - Dogs, 45 to 60 pounds. Bitches, 35 to 50 pounds. Weight is in

proportion to height. The measurements mentioned above represent the extreme height and

weight limits with no preference given to either extreme. Any appearance of excessive bone or

weight should be penalized. In profile, the length of the body from the point of the shoulder to

the rear point of the croup is slightly longer than the height of the body from the ground to the

top of the withers. Disqualification - Dogs over 23½ inches and bitches over 22 inches.

Head: Expression is keen, but friendly; interested and even mischievous. Eyes almond shaped,

moderately spaced and set a trifle obliquely. Eyes may be brown or blue in color; one of each or

parti-colored are acceptable. Faults - Eyes set too obliquely; set too close together. Ears of

medium size, triangular in shape, close fitting and set high on the head. They are thick, well

furred, slightly arched at the back, and strongly erect, with slightly rounded tips pointing straight

up. Faults - Ears too large in proportion to the head; too wide set; not strongly erect. Skull of

medium size and in proportion to the body; slightly rounded on top and tapering from the widest

point to the eyes. Faults - Head clumsy or heavy; head too finely chiseled. Stop - The stop is

well-defined and the bridge of the nose is straight from the stop to the tip. Fault - Insufficient

stop. Muzzle of medium length; that is, the distance from the tip of the nose to the stop is equal

to the distance from the stop to the occiput. The muzzle is of medium width, tapering gradually

to the nose, with the tip neither pointed nor square. Faults - Muzzle either too snipy or too

coarse; muzzle too short or too long. Nose black in gray, tan or black dogs; liver in copper dogs;

may be flesh-colored in pure white dogs. The pink-streaked "snow nose" is acceptable. Lips are

well pigmented and close fitting. Teeth closing in a scissors bite. Fault - Any bite other than

scissors.

Neck, Topline, Body: Neck medium in length, arched and carried proudly erect when dog is

standing. When moving at a trot, the neck is extended so that the head is carried slightly

forward. Faults-Neck too short and thick; neck too long. Chest deep and strong, but not too

broad, with the deepest point being just behind and level with the elbows. The ribs are well

sprung from the spine but flattened on the sides to allow for freedom of action. Faults - Chest too

broad; "barrel ribs"; ribs too flat or weak. Back-The back is straight and strong, with a level

topline from withers to croup. It is of medium length, neither cobby nor slack from excessive length. The loin is taut and lean, narrower than the rib cage, and with a slight tuck-up. The croup

slopes away from the spine at an angle, but never so steeply as to restrict the rearward thrust of

the hind legs. Faults - Weak or slack back; roached back; sloping topline.

Tail: The well furred tail of fox-brush shape is set on just below the level of the topline, and is

usually carried over the back in a graceful sickle curve when the dog is at attention. When

carried up, the tail does not curl to either side of the body, nor does it snap flat against the back.

A trailing tail is normal for the dog when in repose. Hair on the tail is of medium length and

approximately the same length on top, sides and bottom, giving the appearance of a round

brush. Faults - A snapped or tightly curled tail; highly plumed tail; tail set too low or too high.

Forequarters: Shoulders - The shoulder blade is well laid back. The upper arm angles slightly

backward from point of shoulder to elbow, and is never perpendicular to the ground. The

muscles and ligaments holding the shoulder to the rib cage are firm and well developed. Faults -

Straight shoulders; loose shoulders. Forelegs - When standing and viewed from the front, the

legs are moderately spaced, parallel and straight, with the elbows close to the body and turned

neither in nor out. Viewed from the side, pasterns are slightly slanted, with the pastern joint

strong, but flexible. Bone is substantial but never heavy. Length of the leg from elbow to ground

is slightly more than the distance from the elbow to the top of withers. Dewclaws on forelegs

may be removed. Faults - Weak pasterns; too heavy bone; too narrow or too wide in the front;

out at the elbows. Feet oval in shape but not long. The paws are medium in size, compact and

well furred between the toes and pads. The pads are tough and thickly cushioned. The paws

neither turn in nor out when the dog is in natural stance. Faults - Soft or splayed toes; paws too

large and clumsy; paws too small and delicate; toeing in or out.

Hindquarters: When standing and viewed from the rear, the hind legs are moderately spaced

and parallel. The upper thighs are well muscled and powerful, the stifles well bent, the hock joint

well-defined and set low to the ground. Dewclaws, if any, are to be removed. Faults - Straight

stifles, cow-hocks, too narrow or too wide in the rear.

Coat: The coat of the Siberian Husky is double and medium in length, giving a well furred

appearance, but is never so long as to obscure the clean-cut outline of the dog. The undercoat is

soft and dense and of sufficient length to support the outer coat. The guard hairs of the outer coat

are straight and somewhat smooth lying, never harsh nor standing straight off from the body. It

should be noted that the absence of the undercoat during the shedding season is normal.

Trimming of whiskers and fur between the toes and around the feet to present a neater

appearance is permissible. Trimming the fur on any other part of the dog is not to be condoned

and should be severely penalized. Faults - Long, rough, or shaggy coat; texture too harsh or too

silky; trimming of the coat, except as permitted above.

Color: All colors from black to pure white are allowed. A variety of markings on the head is

common, including many striking patterns not found in other breeds.

Gait: The Siberian Husky's characteristic gait is smooth and seemingly effortless. He is quick

and light on his feet, and when in the show ring should be gaited on a loose lead at a moderately

fast trot, exhibiting good reach in the forequarters and good drive in the hindquarters. When

viewed from the front to rear while moving at a walk the Siberian Husky does not single-track,

but as the speed increases the legs gradually angle inward until the pads are falling on a line

directly under the longitudinal center of the body. As the pad marks converge, the forelegs and

hind legs are carried straightforward, with neither elbows nor stifles turned in or out. Each hind

leg moves in the path of the foreleg on the same side. While the dog is gaiting, the topline

remains firm and level. Faults - Short, prancing or choppy gait, lumbering or rolling gait;

crossing or crabbing.

Temperament: The characteristic temperament of the Siberian Husky is friendly and gentle, but

also alert and outgoing. He does not display the possessive qualities of the guard dog, nor is he

overly suspicious of strangers or aggressive with other dogs. Some measure of reserve and

dignity may be expected in the mature dog. His intelligence, tractability, and eager disposition

make him an agreeable companion and willing worker.

Summary: The most important breed characteristics of the Siberian Husky are medium size,

moderate bone, well balanced proportions, ease and freedom of movement, proper coat, pleasing

head and ears, correct tail, and good disposition. Any appearance of excessive bone or weight,

constricted or clumsy gait, or long, rough coat should be penalized. The Siberian Husky never

appears so heavy or coarse as to suggest a freighting animal; nor is he so light and fragile as to

suggest a sprint-racing animal. In both sexes the Siberian Husky gives the appearance of being

capable of great endurance. In addition to the faults already noted, the obvious structural faults

common to all breeds are as undesirable in the Siberian Husky as in any other breed, even though

they are not specifically mentioned herein.

Disqualification: Dogs over 23½ inches and bitches over 22 inches.

Approved October 9, 1990

Effective November 28, 1990

Is The Siberian Husky The Right Breed For You


This breed is not recommended for apartment life. If you don't have a fairly large yard with proper containment then this breed probably isn't right for you. Siberians simply do not do well alone and can have separation anxiety. They also get bored very easily.


Siberians require a lot of time and work. if you're away for long periods of time this probably isn't the right breed for you. Siberians require training and consistency. Training early and often is a must.


This breed needs containment. They are very quick to escape their containment any chance they see. They break, bust, chew, climb, and dig. Their containment must be durable. This breed will run away if given any opportunity.


If you are looking for a guard dog this breed is not for you. Siberians are friendly, social, and affectionate. They are kid and dog friendly and do well in packs, but same sex aggression is not uncommon. They rarely meet a stranger and are usually eager to welcome new people and dogs into the home after a sniff and a wooooo.


Siberians are active dogs and have a lot of energy so they require daily stimulating exercise. This needs to be more than a run in the back yard. A tired Husky is a happy one, a husky full of energy is a misbehaved one. If your husky does not get enough stimulating exercise he will find other ways to blow off his energy. this is more than likely digging through your trash, eating your couch AND your walls. Exercise is important when owning a husky. He is a working breed after all.


Siberians have a very high prey drive. Cute squirrel's in your back yard? Forget about that with a husky around. They will eventually develop a prey drive and they will kill. This breed will do fine with cats as long as they are raised with them, but bringing any new cat or small animal into the home is usually not a good idea with a husky around. They should be raised with their pack. Huskies are not recommended pets if you have livestock, Siberians and chickens do not mix well. This is also another reason containment is important.


The Siberian Husky

Think you know the Siberian Husky? Well I'm here to tell you a few things anyway. If you are seriously thinking of owning a Siberian for the first time please read this page before emailing


Exercise Is the most important thing to remember while owning a Siberian Husky


The Siberian Husky is a working breed which a lot of people seem to over look that very important detail. They need daily exercise. You can't just buy a Siberian Husky and keep them locked up in your apartment with no room to exercise. If you do live in the city with little room for your Siberian Husky to run then you will have to help along the exercising that is important for a Siberian Husky. They are a working breed and they are happy to work and work. They will work themselves to death given the opportunity to do so. There are plenty of things you can do with your Siberian Husky that will give him the exercise and working stimulation that they all need. An un-exercised Husky can be very destructive to his environment  and very stubborn with his owner. Below are some fun things to do to properly exercise your Siberian Husky.


1. Walking/Hiking

And I don't mean just taking your husky on the same 30 minute walk around the block that he does every day. That's no way to stimulate the need for work and exercise. Take him somewhere quiet and with room to explore. An hour long hike in the woods with your husky would make him a very happy dog. If he still needs more stimulation you can buy a backpack for him and make him do all the carrying!


2. Running/Biking

Siberians love to run and work as a team. After properly leash training your husky to walk beside you without any pulling, you can begin to teach him to run beside you. Eventually you can work your way up having him run alongside your bicycle and this can be very fun for a husky!


3. Weight Pulling

After your Siberian Husky is properly leash trained you can buy a pulling harness for him and hook him up to something to pull around. Its fun for him in the snow especially and when done properly and the at the right amounts. It's very important not to over exercise your Siberian Husky, but it is just important not to exercise him too little also.


4. Treadmill

This should only be used if the weather is too hot for your husky or too cold for you. This is a really good indoor exercise for your husky, but should not be over done. Outside exercise is the best stimulation for your Husky.


These are just some ideas for you to exercise your Siberian Husky. There are always others ways so pick a few activities for you to try with your Husky to see which one is best for the both of you.


YOU SHOULD ALWAYS EXERCISE YOUR SIBERIAN HUSKY BEFORE...



- A Bath

- Grooming or Nail Clipping

- Before you plan to leave for anything for any amount of time

- Before taking him on a car ride

- Before anyone visits his and your home

- Before he has a meal

- Before he goes to bed

- When he wakes up in the morning (an hour morning romp in the back yard would suffice his morning exercise)

-  Or if he's just bored or being destructive, or a bully to you or any other pets in household



Discipline is also very important and falls just second behind exercise.



When I say discipline I don't mean rolling up a newspaper and hitting your Husky with it. This should be avoided no matter what. This kind of discipline is ABUSE and I do not approve of anyone doing it under any circumstances.  Proper discipline means a happier, more balanced pet. Discipline should not be confused with punishment. Getting a new Siberian Husky puppy is an exciting experience that many new owners forget that your Husky is going to be big and bullheaded one day, so therefor they often let their Huskies get away with too much, thinking they can correct the behavior when they get older. This just is not the case. The first 7 days are the key days to show your Sibe what is right and wrong. If you don't want him doing it as an adult, then don't let him do it as a puppy. If dogs were still wild your Siberian Husky would be in a pack and he would either be the leader or a follower. When he goes home with you he is joining your pack and will either become a dominant leader of the pack or a follower (you need your Siberian Husky to become a follower, humans should always be alpha to him and this is where discipline is needed to show him that he is not the alpha of your pack. It is very important to be the alpha of a Siberian Husky Pack.


DOMINANCE (do this early and often, if you wait until he is older it will not work once he thinks he is the alpha of the pack)

You don't know how many times I've gotten emails once my puppies have started to grow up about alpha dog behavioral problems. The Siberian Husky is a breed that needs discipline and established pack ranking. He should always be the last to do anything.

- Never let your Siberian Husky walk through the door first. The alpha always goes first

- Never let your Husky eat first, the alpha eats first

- Never move around your Siberian Husky to get through, make him move because you are the alpha

- Always make your Sibe come to you, never go to him.

- Never go to your dog to greet him after you return, as you are the alpha, so he should greet you

- When you are playing with a toy with him always come away with the toy in the end and put it away as the alpha would control this behavior

- Never let you Siberian Husky sleep in your bed until you are completely sure that you are the alpha of the pack. Even then you should make him sleep at the foot of the bed.



Be your Huskies leader, guide him, get him to trust you, practice dominance, positive reinforcement, proper discipline, and play. Make sure he understands the house rules.



Play is important and as the alpha you should always start and stop the play. He should learn to always stop playing when you, the alpha, tell him to. Start early by not letting him bite or nip you. This is a very hard behavior to break when he does not learn at an early age.



        HAVING TWO SIBERIAN HUSKIES IS ALWAYS BETTER THAN HAVING ONE



Affection is always 3rd after exercise and discipline, but is needed. Siberian Huskies need love too.


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Created by Ashley D